So-called smart appliances, bulbs, and thermostats work through your Wi-Fi network, the same one your computers, phones, and tablets are connected to. And that network is only as safe as its weakest point. Check that any “smart” appliance, bulb, or fixture you buy has a user-settable password and reset it immediately with a strong, unique password. NEVER use the vendor-supplied password. It’s public knowledge, and that public includes hackers.

Maybe. Smart thermostats offer several ways to cut down on heating and cooling costs including rate reductions from your utility through various energy-saving programs. If your utility bills are significant, or you just want to do more to conserve energy, a smart thermostat may be right for you. Visit your local utility website to learn more.

At minimum, we recommend installing programmable thermostats that let you set temperatures to reflect your usage needs.

Power outages are part of Colorado’s quirky weather all year round. Most are nuisances, but if you work from home or depend on electricity to run critical data or health equipment, even a short loss can be devastating.

Backup power systems run from batteries to generators, but all must be installed and run properly. Call Allstar Electrical Service to learn the one that’s right for you.

Colorado has the second highest incidence of lightning in the nation (after Florida). But most residential and low-rise buildings in urban areas forgo the expense ($1,000 or more for a proper
installation) in favor of secondary protection such as whole home or office surge protectors, suppressors, and arrestors. They protect electrical systems and expensive electronics against lightning and other surge-related damage.

But if your home or building is tall or you have tall trees or power poles within ten feet of the structure, a lightning rod is encouraged. Some insurance companies even offer lower rates for lightning protection to offset the cost of adding it. Call Allstar Electrical at 303-399-7420 to discuss your options.

Hanging lights should be 28-34 inches above an island counter. Spacing of multiple pendants depends on the size and intensity of the lights. A chandelier should be roughly 30-34 inches above the table in a room with 8-foot ceilings and at least 48 inches from the walls.

BTW: Ceiling fans must be at least 7 feet above the floor to avoid unwanted haircuts.

The fluorescing powders and mercury in fluorescent bulbs present environmental hazards making them toxic in regular trash, so they must be recycled properly. If a fluorescent bulb breaks during handling, don’t use a broom or vacuum to clean up the mess. Scrape up as much of the debris as you can with an index card or stiff piece of paper and carefully put it in a sealable container. Use duct tape to pick up the remaining dust and glass particles and put the tape in with the other pieces. Then use a damp paper towel to wipe up any particles that may remain and add the towel to the container. Avoid breathing in the dusty particles. Finally, seal the container, wash your hands, and either recycle it or dispose of it in an approved manner. You can find recycling centers and proper disposal methods on the internet.

Then replace the fluorescent bulb with an LED!

The simple answer is yes. While fluorescents use less energy than tungsten lamps, LEDs use even less. LEDs deliver better light quality at precise color temperatures.

Yes! It was a long time coming, but major manufacturers are producing tubular LED bulbs that fit common fluorescent fixtures, including those with ballasts. But just like fluorescents, you have to match the LED tube with the existing fixture or replace it with an LED-specific fixture. It’s important to match the right bulb and fixture, so give Allstar Electrical a call at 303-399-7420 and our experts will guide you the right solution for your individual needs.

It’s probably because you have a bulb on a dimmer that wasn’t made for use with dimmers. Just like CFLs, some LED bulbs are dimmable and some aren’t. Using a non-dimmable LED with a dimmer switch can cause problems like flickering and will eventually damage it.

Read the bulb’s packaging to learn whether or not it’s dimmable.

Yes. LEDs have come long way. Now there are LED bulbs to fit nearly every type of specialty fixture. Most lighting and hardware stores carry a wide selection of LED bulbs, but if you’re uncertain which ones to get, give Allstar Electrical a call at 303-399-7420 and our experts will guide you the right solution for your individual needs.

They sure can. While early LEDs were generally dim and only suitable for accent lighting, today LEDs come in wattages (actually lumens) sufficient to light offices, parking lots, and highways. They’re even available to replace fluorescent tubes in offices and work areas (see below).

Very likely. Today’s LEDs come in a wide variety of sizes, shapes, and strength to fit nearly any existing socket configuration. NOTE: not all LED bulbs are dimmable, so be sure to read the packaging before putting one on a dimmer. If it doesn’t say dimmable, it probably isn’t.

Simply put, you get what you pay for when it comes to LED bulbs. LEDs made in the US and most European countries are subject to rigorous testing and quality standards. This includes delivering the stated amount and quality of light, safe and robust construction, and tight quality control. Similar standards exist with most LEDs made in Japan and South Korea, but other countries, notably China, produce products that are inferior and even sometimes unsafe.

Stick to products made by major manufacturers with names you recognize and trust.

The answer is in the name itself—a diode, a semiconductor that allows current to flow in only one direction, that emits light when electricity passes through one or more of several metallic substances causing photons (light) to be emitted in a process called photoluminescence.

First developed in the 1950s, LEDs have progressed to where they generate very precise light across the spectrum at a much lower wattage consumption per lumen than filament or fluorescent bulbs.

GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) breakers are designed to trip whenever the slightest leak in the circuit between the live conductor and the neutral return conductor is detected. Electrical codes require GFCI breakers to be installed on any circuit where dampness may occur including bathrooms, kitchens, garages, and outdoor outlets. They may be located at specific outlets or inside a breaker panel and have a red button that will pop out when the circuit is interrupted.

To reset, simply press the red button. It should remain depressed and power should be restored. If it trips again there may be a faulty device plugged in. Remove the suspected device and try again. If it still trips, the problem is more serious—a faulty breaker or a short in the electrical wiring. 

If that happens, it’s time to call Allstar Electrical Services at 303.399.7420 and let one of our licensed electricians track down the problem before serious damage occurs.

Tripped breakers are usually easy to see in your service panel. The switch will be offset to the right of the other switches in the panel, indicating a trip of that circuit. Turn off everything in the effected room to guard against a power surge, then move the breaker switch to the OFF position. Next move the switch to ON and wait a few seconds to be sure it doesn’t trip again. Then turn the lights and appliances back on.

If the breaker trips again, the problem may be an overload from a heater, toaster, or power tool. Move the item to another circuit and test again. If that doesn’t solve the problem, if you see any signs of overheating or odd smells, or if you’re not comfortable dealing with it yourself, call Allstar Electrical Services at 303.399.7420. We’re happy to help solve your problem.

We presume you’ve checked to see if a bulb is burned out first. If that’s not the problem, the next likely culprit is a tripped breaker (or blown fuse in older buildings). Check your service panel and reset the breaker or replace the fuse as needed. If you want to be sure, there are several digital electric circuit breaker finders on the market that range in price depending on features. Some power strips and other devices have their own breakers, too, so check them if they’re easy to access.

A GFI, or GFCI – Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter works by comparing the input current on the hot side to the output current on the neutral side. If the slightest difference in current even a few milliamps exists,  the device very quickly cuts off the power supply to the leaking device. This protects from electric shocks from faults in the electrical devices used in the home.

GFCI protection should be provided anywhere there is a receptacle installed in an area near moisture. Moisture greatly increases the danger of accidental shock. The National Electric Code specifies many such areas in residential dwelling units, such as, but not limited to: Bathrooms; Garages and accessory buildings; All exterior receptacles; Crawl spaces; Unfinished basements; Kitchens; Laundry, Utility, Wet Bar Sink Areas; and Boathouses. Local building authorities may have additional requirements.

The list of areas requiring GFCI protection has increased with every code revision. Call on the pros for Allstar.

Appliances such as a washer, dryer, oven, and furnace, require the extra voltage. 220V outlets are required. 220V is 2 wires that combined produce twice the amount of voltage to the outlet.

A 110V outlet has only one hot terminal, and the hot wire is always black.

Another key difference between 110 and 220 circuits is the wire size. Because 220-volt circuits carry higher current, they require 10 gauge or larger wire, whereas the normal maximum wire size in a 110-volt circuit is 12 gauge.

220V also presents safety concerns. A 220V outlet will feel like twice the shock and twice the pain of a 110. Call in the pros from Allstar.

According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, aluminum wire manufactured before 1972 are 55 x more likely to have one or more connections reach Fire Hazard Conditions than is a home wired with copper.

Who hasn’t heard that aluminum wiring has been recalled and that it is no longer approved or permitted in homes? Neither of these is true. Aluminum wiring was introduced to homes in North America in the mid-1960s. The price of copper was very high, and aluminum was a cost-effective alternative. Aluminum wiring is permitted with the appropriate installation methods and materials.

Since the biggest issue with aluminum wiring is at connections, special connectors were designed for aluminum wiring. Don’t just go to the hardware store and pick up a standard outlet. It must be marked specifically that it is safe for aluminum. Below is a list safe for aluminum wiring:

• Small receptacles marked CO/ALR or AL-CU
• Large receptacles (> 20 amps) marked AL-CU or CU-AL
• Switches marked CO/ALR
• Wire nuts marked AL-CU or CU-AL
• Electrical panels and breakers marked AL-CU or CU-AL.

Call on the pros from Allstar.